![]() Do not fill any more as this is where it needs to be: Note, fill the unit up to the top friction. In this case, this car is getting our Drag 800 build, so we are filling it with our race RED fluid. This allows for better heat and fluid movement to keep things cooler. Helpful tip, line all of the frictions so all of the holes are aligned all the way down. Go steel, friction, steel, friction 9 times until a friction is at the top. ![]() Install the clutches with a steel plate first, then friction. ![]() The fluid also looked new, so we know these have not been under any load or stress through the life so far. Less than 35 and you have wear:Īs you can see, this 2k mile trans has plates in great shape! We are just going to reuse these as replacing them seems like a waste of money at this point and are going to discount the total costs to the customer. If it's 35-36mm, they are in great shape. To verify clutches are good, take all 9 frictions and steels and line then up together. Please note there are 6 balls in there, don't lose them. You can now take the unit off the vise, turn it upside down and drain all fluids and remove all parts. We just happen to sell them HERE.Īfter checking, you can now go ahead and turn counterclockwise until it comes off. If it turns more than 90, then you have friction wear and the friction plates will need to be replaced. If the unit is healthy, it will turn 90 degrees and then stop. Special note: turn the cap clockwise all of the way until it stops. What I did was take a cheap large socket and weld pins to it that fit the holes in the plate. Making a simple tool for the removal of the cap makes life a lot easier. Tap it counterclockwise until it loosens and comes off. I have a special tool for this, but am showing the way it can be done without it and only using a chisel and hammer. Note I also made a special plate so I can pull the coil off: ![]() I then take the puller and install it as you see in the picture below. What we do is install the shaft into the assembly and let it drop to the bottom. It can be used to check torque values, but is also used as a pressure point for removing the coil via a puller. This is an indication to me that this unit is likely to be in great shape. This ETS unit came out of a 2013 trans with 2k miles on it, so I got 10NM of resistance when I tried to turn the assembly. This allows me to put a torque wrench on the shaft and measure what kind of resistance I am seeing via the clutches. All I did was weld a socket to the end of the shaft as you see in the picture below. I had a broken ETS output shaft which I modified to use as a clutch pressure and friction tester. The housing can be easily damaged if pressure is applied, so don't put pressure on the housing, only the bolts.Īfter it is secure on the vise, you can then get started. Note, you want the vise to hold it at the bolt heads and not the body of the housing. Set the unit up on a vise as shown in the picture below. The first step is the remove the ETS unit from the trans. Please feel free to contact us with any of your GT-R needs. We want to help and work with those which want to install and rebuild their own units. Also note that nice instructions like this are included with a lot of the DIY parts we sell. These units are supposed to be a secret, so we are spilling the beans as we would like to help everyone. If you find these instructions useful, please help support us by purchasing the parts you need from us. We support those that like to do the job themselves.
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